Saturday, 19 March 2011

chine





planking ....thickness has to be 8mm.










The chine need to be beveled so 3or4 people were holding the chine to the clamping for measuring the gap between frame and plank and then draw the line on the planking we can bevel.  





Ater draw the line, we started to bevel the planking. The most important thing is that make sure the fair because when we plane, we somtime make a miatake some part is fair other part isn't so we did plane carefully and went straight way. The FP should be very sharp. we also make some block which is beveled because some frame which is foward doesnt fit on the waterline which means, we need to twist the striped planking and then screw on the block to make sure its fit on the waterline.




we set up the chine and did glue striped planking. The foward was clamping to doesn't move. However the problem part was that chine because chris suggested that forward of chine should be laminated but no one remeber that way and chris didn't happy with it so we took it out for laminating. Some reason why we laminate the chine is that it will be easier to twist. As you can see that picture, we cut it divided by three piece so it's getting flexible. The other reason is that it will be more strong. This is one of the function of the epoxy. After glue these, taping each foward dosen't move. 




1 comment:

  1. Young Tae this is a good explanation of the chine plank. Yes we did have to split it into 3 as the twist was hard to hold into location. The text you are adding with the pictures helps to explain your understanding of what is happening.

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